This information is not complete. It was assembled from snipers of emails. Just think of it as an adventure.
Egyptian Ridge is between Luxor Peak and Kumiva Peak in the Selenite Range. Head down highway 447 past Pyramid Lake toward Empire NV (and further, the Black Rock desert). Look on a mapping app for the road that goes over a pass (right hand turnoff) between those two mountains. At the top of the pass is a steep 4×4 road on the left. A 4×4 is certainly convenient however Betsy and I have hiked from the top of the pass. From the top of the pass go only a few hundred yards if that to a turnout on the left, there may be a fire ring there. You step through the barbwire fence, and maybe a rough trail.
For some reason it is confusing the first time you go there. There is a rap on top of the Sphinx although I’ve never done it. It would be helpful not to walk down and around.
A corner system that splits the Spinx down the middle. Head down the north side of the formation and around to the toe of the Sphinx located on the west side. Looking up the route, which is the most obvious line on the wall, it
takes a direct line to the summit. A massive roof halts upward movement on the final pitch but it
appeared that it is possible to avoid the feature and continue to the top on the right side.
Overall we were stoked on the quality of the line. Clean cracks and great belay ledges made this a
four star route.
5.10 3 pitches
FA Laine christman and Rick Sumner
P1- Climb up easy rock to a left slanting hand crack. Traverse the arching crack and lieback to easier
terrain (5.9). Continue up the corner to a stance below a large roof. Step over onto slick stone and
place gear in the finger crack below a short, steep section of face, right of the main corner. Fired the
finger crack utilizing a hand crack in a flake that’s up and right (5.10). Belay at the ledge via two pins and small cams.
P2 – Continue up the stellar finger/hand crack in the corner to a massive roof (5.9). At the roof follow
a hand crack out the right side of the roof. Belay at the ledge.
P3 – Continue up the corner into an off width. A #6 is needed to protect this section. Follow the crack
trending right. Gooding jamming in a chimney/corner leads to the top. Belay using finger sized cams.
Next week its the Crack Wall ( previously pictured in this thread) which should yield plenty of crack
climbs in the 5.8 to 5.11 or harder range.
The Sphinx formation is now equipped with two rap stations that, with a 70m rope, will get you down
to the base of S.O / K.T. To do this, approach the top of Washoe Zephry, set an equalizer on the
bolted anchor and rap down to the ledge at its base (35m exactly). Move left to another rap station
(with rings) that takes you down to the base of the formation. Climb a route to the summit and clean
your upper anchor set up.
The rap approach probably saves 15 minutes of time threading your way down
through the fourth class boulders to the base. So, you did four of the best routes all in a day, now
which is the best on the rock?
I’d have to say the best rock from bottom to top is on Washoe Zephyr. That thing is soooo clean. A
great lead for those looking to get into off-width climbing. Nice job on that one.
Edit – The best line overall is King Tut IMHO. That dihedral pitch is intimidating from below, but a
pleasure once you’re plugged in.
Green route: NWButtress 300ish feet 5.7. FA Sumner, Pinckney, Creelman.
Orange Route: Steppin Out. 5.8/5.9? FA: Sumner, Pinkney, Christman
Red Route: Washoe Zephyr. 115 feet 5.9 OW. FA: Creelman, Christman
Yellow Route: unnamed 70 feet 5.7 FA: Christman, Creelman
Most routes take a mix of trad gear to 3 inch, but Zephyr will take up to a #5 camalot at the bulge (which is the crux).
Kitty Wall (East-most formation, east of dirt approach road)
Stepping Out, 5.9